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Some mothers mail their children cookies to give them a taste of home when they go off to college. Mine sent my favorite chili crisp — though it was well before the condiment’s star had risen.
The idea of infusing fried chili peppers into oil is not new. But in the U.S., the codified riot of oil and crunch with an explosion of spices and heat grew from niche condiment to tabletop essential over the last 10 years, bringing endless varieties of the fiery, booming blast of a condiment.
What I grew up spooning into my instant ramen (Maruchan chicken flavor in the orange packet, please) is now drizzled on ice cream, plopped on pizza, and dressed in fancy packaging. Sadly, the restaurant that made my favorite sauce stopped selling it before the country hit peak-chili-crisp. Thus, I have spent the last near-decade of my life stalking shelves in search of the ideal replacement, and the taste test below was simply a continuation of my quest for a deliciously balanced combination of fried peppers, oil, and umami.
The Taster
I keep a tray with a half-dozen chili crisp varieties on my dining room table at all times. I tried 10 different sauces — all available for delivery through DoorDash — to see which ones were worth adding to my collection. Only four made the cut.
The Methodology
At first, I tried each sauce the way any normal person would: by the spoonful. This allowed me to see how it worked alone, feel the texture, and sense the nuances. I looked for crunch and heat, but also any flavors or traits that set the sauce apart from the crowded field.
Later, I tried each one with both plain rice and a light stir-fry of bok choy and tofu to see how they interacted with different foods. Most importantly, I left the finalists on my table for a week to see when and how I reached for each one.
The Results
Best Overall: Lao Gan Ma Fried Chili in Oil
Lao Gan Ma is the OG — that’s “Old Grandmother” to you — of chili crisps. The bright red jars featuring the brand matriarch’s stoic face offer a variety of products. The fried chili in oil — the one with the green strip on the label — differs from the product the company calls “spicy chili crisp” in that it replaces soybeans and onion with peanuts. Au revoir! They are not missed: The peanuts are bigger and crunchier than the soybeans anyway.
“The Lady,” as she’s called at my house, focuses on the important parts: oil, chili, and MSG. Notably, it has much more chili flavor than competitors, with a mid-level heat that stays consistent throughout the bite. Other spices barely factor, and without the floral notes of Sichuan pepper or muskiness of cumin, it doesn’t overwhelm dishes. For an everyday, keep-on-the-table sauce that works on a wide variety of foods, this was my top pick.
Best Crunch: Kari Kari Garlic Chili Crisp
Kari’s fried garlic chips pack a texture punch and back it up with an allium jab. An intricate team of back-up crunchies formed by shallots and peanuts made this the clear winner on texture. The heat on this one starts slow but builds nicely with time, supported by the floral zing of Sichuan peppercorn. This stuff stands on its own, and the big flavors and bold texture are the clear choice for anything that can act as a blank canvas, such as plain rice or steamed vegetables.
If you can’t find Kari Kari chili crisp, S&B Mild Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil Umami Topping is a close and delicious alternative. It’s has big crunchy chunks of garlic.
Most Intriguing: Kinder’s Ancho Chili Crunch Blend
This sauce sits nicely in the liminal space between salsa macha and chili crisp. Kinder’s mostly focuses on barbecue sauce and meat seasonings, so it uses a rather inspired choice of smoked ancho peppers as the main flavor. The mild smokiness adds a warm depth, bolstered by garlic taken just to the edge of burning. The standard crunchiness also gets a unique twist with big salt grains. Reach for this one for dishes with a strong char like roasted meats or vegetables, which will stand up to the garlic and benefit from the smokiness.
For another option with a Mexican flavor profile, try Somos Mexican Chili Crisp Nuts & Seeds Salsa Macha. It has a smoky flair with a variety of nuts and seeds making up its crisp component.
Best Umami: Lahtt Vegan All-Purpose Chili Oil Sauce
This is not technically a chili crisp — it’s soft and calls itself a chili oil — but it lives in the same flavor realm. While it lacks the crunch to make it king of the crisps, it is, perhaps, the duchess of a small territory within it: umami-ville. It’s thick and filled with rich, strong flavors from mushrooms and garlic. Tomato paste gives it a touch of tang for a well-rounded, balanced sauce. This could be used for both cooking a dish and topping one at the table, and it works in combination with a more textured second sauce.
PHOTO CREDIT:
Photography: Paul Quitoriano
Prop Styling: Gerri Williams
Art Direction: Sarah Ceniceros Gomez
